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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.